Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Cleveland Chophouse & Brewery

824 W Saint Clair Ave
Cleveland, OH 44113
(216) 623-0909

Bite: GO GO GO. And if you see sliders on the menu, please let me know.

by Beau Cadiyo

In what I like to think of as a small victory for traditional slider values, I went to the Cleveland Chophouse yesterday for lunch. Earlier, I had reviewed their sliders and found them wanting - not because of true defects, but because they were not "sliders" but instead were pieces of a hamburger. Yesterday, however, there were no "sliders" advertised on the menu. This may just be the lunch menu, but I hope that it is more than that - a recognition that businesses can't get away with packaging old products as new, and a victory for traditional definitions against shortcut, newfangled poppycock.

Anyways, I had the Steak and Cheddar yesterday. I expected them to just put a steak between two slices of bread, put some cheese on top and serve it. Instead, they cut the steak into strips (which is a much more intelligent way to do it than my way), put it in a giant roll, melted cheese on top and on bottom, and gave me a veritable tureen of rosemary au jus sauce for dipping, along with some seasoned fries. This, my friends, was heaven. The bread was crunchy on the outside, flaking off in my hands, but moist on the inside; the steak was tender, the cheddar registered a bit of dairy in my nose, and the au jus - the au jus! It tasted faintly, but perceptibly, of rosemary, was thicker than I expected, and there was more than enough to dip every single bite of my sandwich (I'd secretly feared that there wouldn't be enough). My God, but this was a sandwich for Kings, or at least five people sitting around a large table with occasionally halting, awkward conversation. The fries were old and limp, not so much "seasoned" as "burned," but with the sandwich - the sandwich! And the au jus! - such a fault might be overlooked.

In a bite: GO GO GO. And if you see sliders on the menu, please let me know.

Cleveland Chophouse & Brewery on Urbanspoon

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